And valentine moeslein



(No Model.)

P. W. STEPHENSON 8v MOESLEIN. Sewing Machine.

No. 242,392, Patented May 31, 1881.

uuw n w. Walhington. 0.1;

NITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

FRANCIS W. STEPHENSON, OF NEW YORK, AND VALENTINE MOESLEIN, OF BROOKLYN, N. Y.

SEW'ING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 242,392, dated May 31, 1881.

Application filed July 13, 1880.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, FRANCIS W. STEPHEN- soN, a citizen of the United States, residing at New York, in the county and State of New' York, and VALENTINE MOESLEIN, a citizen of the German Empire, residing; at Brooklyn, in the county of Kings and State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines, of which the following is a specification.

Some parts of this invention are especially adapted to machines for sewing straw-braid or the like, while other parts are adapted to sewing-machines of ordinary construction and it consists in certain novel combinations of parts, hereinafter fully described, and pointed out in the claims.

This invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which Figure l represents a side elevation. Fig. 2 is a front view. Fig. 3 is a plan view of the throat-plate and feed mechanism. Figs.4and5 are detail views of the eccentric as applied to the drivingshaft and feed-carrier.

Similar letters indicate corresponding parts.

The letter A designates the machine-frame, supporting, in substantially the usual manner, the throat-plate B, the resser-foot O, and the needle-bar D, the presser-foot being equipped with a lifting-cam, O, and the needle-slide bein g connected to a vibrating beam, D, whence it receives a reciprocating motion.

In the ordinary straw-braid sewing-machines of the Wilcox & Gibbs class, to which our invention pertains, the presser-foot is lifted clear of the work at the downward movement of the needle, in order to allow the work to be turned by the operator, especially in sewing the tip or center of a hat, and to this end the presser-foot has been connected to a vibrator or tipper suitably arranged on the machine.

One object of our invention is to dispense with the tipper referred to, and at the same time allow the workto be turned to any extent by the operator; and to this end we construct the throat-plate B with a ridge or elevation, at, at such a part thereof that the presser-foot 0 acts on the work only at the point at which itis sewed, leaving the remaining portion thereof free to be turned. The ridge or elevation (No model) B a extends crosswise of and the whole width of the throat-plate B, and itis situated contiguous to the needle-hole b in such plate, a portion ofthis hole being within one edge of the ridge,

as shown in Fig. 3. The under or hearing sur- 5 5 face of the presser-foot G is substantially flat, and hence it comes in effective contact with the work at no other point than where the work is raised by the ridge or elevation a. By our arrangement the bulk of the work is free to be turned at all times during the sewing operation, and not only in the downward movement of the needle, which obviously facilitates the proper guidance of the work.

The ordinaryone-part presser-foot is not practically adapted to the sewing of straw-braid, because of the difference in thickness of the work along the line of the stitching, the lapped portion being thicker or higher than the free edge of the braid which is being sewed, and the presser-foot acting on one part of the work only, so that the operation of the feed mechanism is imperfect. To overcome this difficulty we attach to the presser-foot 0 an adjustable heel, 0 adapted to act on the lapped portion ot' the work. This heel O is on the front part of the presser-foot, and in this example it has the shape of an inverted T, while the vertical limb thereof is slotted for the reception of a set-screw, (1, whereby it is held in place.

When the machine is applied to use the work 7 is adjusted so that the body of the presser-foot bears on-the single portion or edge of the braid. The heel is then adjusted to the thickness of the lapped braidnamel y, to bear thereon-- 8 5 and by this means the correct operation of the feed mechanism is insured.

The feed mechanism consists of a feed surface or dog, 0, attached to a feed-carrier, E, which receives the required motion from the 0 driving-shaft F, through a twopart eccentric,

H H, one part of which is fixed on the shaft while the other is adjustable on the fixed part The feed-carrier E is-constructed with a sleeve, 4* E, which is fitted on the eccentric, and with 5 a slotted arm, E, which is pivoted to the machine-frame, as at f. The outer or adjustable part, H, of the eccentric is held in place by a set-screw, g, which passes through such adjustable part and bears on the inner or fixed part,

H, and to which access is had through a hole, h, in the sleeve E. At one end of the adjustable part H of the eccentric is a semicircular groove, 1', and on the fixed part H thereof is a pin,j which is fitted into the groove, and by turning the part H to bring the pin to either end of such groove a minimum or maximum degree of eccentricity is obtained.

It will be readily understood that by changing the position of the adjustable part II of the eccentric the feed motion is changed accordingly, while the desired purpose is accomplished with a very simple contrivauce.

What we claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. In astraw-braid sewing-machine, the coinbination, with a throat-plate having a transverse ridge projecting from its upper face adjacent to its needle-aperture, of a presser-foot having a vertically-adjustable heel arranged to act upon the lapped portion of the work, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

2. The combination, with a driving'shaft in a sewing-machine, of the two-part eccentric composed of the inner eccentric ring H, pro- "ided with a pin, 6, and secured upon the shaft, and the outer eccentric ring H, formed with a groove to receive the pin i, and secured to the-inner ring by screw 9, and the slotted arm E, provided with a sleeve, receiving the twopart eccentric, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof we have hereunto set our hands and seals in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

FRANCIS W. STEPHENSON. VALENTINE MOESLEIN.

Witnesses:

J. HERMANN WArrLnRs, E. F. KASTENIIUBER. 

